Inseam-shoe-sewing machine



BEST AVAILABLE COP;

"mi-6H 2 1926. 4

v A. B. FOWLER INSEAM SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 14, 1918 13 Sheets-Sheet 1 8EST AVAILABLE com March. 2 1926. Y

A. B. FOWLER INSEAM same sxawme momma Filed Sept. 14, 1918 13 Sheets-Sheet BEST AVAILABLE cop A. B. FOWLER INSEAM SHOE] SEWING MACHINE March 2 1926.

Filed Sept. 14, 1918 13 sheets sheet 3 @9 3 m q M I 7 64, 2 WK/W BEST AVAILABLE COPY March 2 1926. 1,575,103

A. B. FOWLER v INSEAM SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 1 1918 13 Sheets-Sheet 4 BEST AVAILABLE COPX March 2 1926.

- A. B. FOWLER INSEAM SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 14, 1918 1:5 sheets-sheet 5 0n: a, M

" BEST AVAILABLE COP- March 2 1926.

A. B. FOWLER INSEAM SHOE SEWING MAQHINE Filed Sept. 14, 1918,- 15 Sheets-Sheet e BEST AVAILABLE COP-.'

March 2 1926.

A. B. FOWLER INSEAM SHOE SEWING MACHINE 1918 13 Sheets-Sheet 7 Filed Sept. 14

BEST AVAILABLE COPY March 2 1926.

A. B. FGVVLER INSEAM SHOE SEWING MACHINE 13 Sheds-Sheet a Filed Sept. 14, 1918 BEST AVAtLABLE com;

March 2 1926.

A. B. FOWLER INSEAM SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept 14, 1918 13 Sheets-Sheet 9 14.4 a W W /UQ J BEST AVAILABLE COP\ March 2 1926.

Filed Sept. 14, 191s 1s Sheets-Sheet .10

it it? BEST AVMLABLE 0 March 2 1926. 1,575,103

. A. B. FOWLER INSEAM SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 14, 1918 13 Sheets-$he9t 1 BEST AVAILABLE COP\ March 2 1926.

A. B. FOWLER Y INSEAM SHbE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 14, 1918 13 Sheets-Sheet l2 M m m u 0 n 4. 3 m a m L w m W V" w E 0 7 a w PM MW M p w w 1 fi 6 March 2 1926.

BEST AVAILABLE COPY 1,575,103 A. B. FOWLER INSEAM SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 14, 1918 13 Sheets-Sheet 15 y q a m Patented Mar. 2, 1926.

UNiTE-fi srarss atsnr orr ee.

ALFRED B. rownnn, or BEVERLY, mnssaenusn'r'rs, Assmnon TO UNITED anoint MACHINERY new JERSEY.

CORPORATION, OF 'PATERSQN, NEW JERSEY, A; 'GOBPORATION- OF INSEAMHOE-SEWING MAoHIivE.

Application filed September 14, 1918 Serial lid-254,164.

1 all who-m it may concern:

Be it known that I, ALFRED B. FOWLER,

a citizen of the United States, residing at- Beverly, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Inseam-Shoe- Sewing Machines; and I do hereby declare a the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same."

The present invention'relates to' inseam shoe sewing machines and is intended pri- .marily as an improvement on that class of inseam sewing machines which form a chain stitch and which are provided with a curved hook-needle entering the shoe from the out side, and with a stitch setting take-up opcrating to pull the last formed looptightly around the shank of the needle while the needle is in the work. An example of this class of machine is the well. known Goodyeaihwelt and turn shoe sewing'machine, the construction and mode of operation of which is disclosed with substantial accuracy in the patent to French and Meyer, No. 412,704. As will be obvious to those skilled in the art, however, certain'features of the present invention are equally applicable to other types of inseam shoe sewing machines, and it is to be understood that, except as defined in the claims, the several features of the present invention are not limited to use in any particular type of inseam sewing machine.

The several features of the present invention will be understood from the following detailed description and the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a front elevation of a shoe sewing machine embodying the features of the present invention in their preferred form; Fig. 2 is afsideelevation looking from the left, partly in section and with a portion of the casing removed; Fig. 3 is a sectional elevation looking from the righttand taken on a plane just to the right of the needle segment; Fig. 4- is a plan view partly. in section'of a portion of the machine; Fig. 5 is an enlarged sectional elevation ofa portion of the mechanism shown in Fig. .3; Fig. 6 is a side elevation looking from-the right partly in section and with the casingremoved; Fig.

'Fis an enlarged sectional side elevation of a portion of the'mechanism shown in Fig. 2; Fig. 8 is a view showing the thread cu't ter' and "holder "and the actuating devices for the same in front elevation and certain other parts in section; 9 is adetail sectional view on the line 9-'9 of Fig, 8,looking inftheldireotionof the arrows; Fig. 10 is a detail view inflfront/ elevation of the actuating devices for the thread cutter and holder; Fig."11 is a detail p'lanview partly in section on jthe 'li'ne'11-11 of Fig. 10,

showing the looper actuating mechanism,

and the thread cutting and holdin device in position to engage the thread; F'1g.'12 is a 'detail view in substantially "ertical section on the line 1 2 "12 of Fig. 10, looking in the direction of theiarrows; Fig. 13 is a detail view in horizontal section'of the clutch mechanism through Which the thread.

cutter and holder are actuated; Fig. 14; isa detail view in vertical section on the line 14-14 of Fig. 13, looking in the directionof the arrows;'"liig, '15 is a detail plan View partly in section of the actuating devices for the awl, needle and thread finger; Fig. 16 is a detail plan View of the channel closing finger, the back gage and back rest and the actuating devices"therefor; Fig. 17 is detail plan view of the back rest and the locking" dev'ices'for the back rest and back gage; Fig. 18 is adetail sectional elevation of the backrest and said locking devices; Fig-19 is a detail vertical section on the line 19 -19 of Fig. 18 looking in the directionof the arrow; Fig. 20 is a detail vertical section on the line 2-020.of Fig. 18 looking in the direction of the arrow Fig. 21 is a "vertical transverse section through the stop mechanism taken in aplane passing through the axis of the main driving shaft; and Fig. 22 is a longitudinalvertica-l se'ction'taken on the line 22-22 ,ofFig. 21, and looking in the 'direction of thearrows.

. 'lhe machine illustrated in the drawings provided with an awl or feed point, a curvedhook needle, a needle guide, a looper, a; threadarm, a take-up, an auxiliary takeup, achannel guide, a back gage, a back rest, and a tension device, all having the same general function and modeof operation except as hereinafter described as the '65 secured thereto.

vided with means for adjusting its length similar to the mechanism provided to adjust the length of link 52, and by adjusting the length of said links and the position of the looper relative to the needle may be varied as desired. The combined act on of these devices for giving motion 'to the looper causes the looper to move about the needle as hereinaftc'l described.

It will be seen from an inspection of Fig. 11 that the thread handling devices of the machine illustrated in the drawings are arranged and actuated to form a chain stitch the loop of which is twisted through a complete turn. This form of stitch is highly desirable, especially in shoe work, since the twisted loops form a narrow seam lying closely against the material, and having the appearance of a single cord, and also effectivel resistany tendency of the stitches to become loose; To form this twisted loop chain stitch the thread arm, in measuring off thread between the work and the needle, is given a movement'outwardly toward the center line of the shoe, and the looper, in encircling the needle, is passed first across the plane of the needle outside of the circle of the needle, then across the plane of the needle inside of the circle of the needle,

and finally again across the plane of' the needle outside of the circle of the needle to lay the thread in the needle hook. When the needle retracts a twist is formed in the needle loop by reason of the fact that the thread leads from the work to the outside of the needle and completely encircles the needle before entering the hook. The outward movement given to the thread arm causes the thread to be held in such a position that the needle can be threaded in the desired manner and also this movement of the thread arm measures the thread accurately and without any liability of injury to the channel flap of the shoe sole.

The main take-up consists of a thread truck 62 mounted on the upper and forward end of a slide 63, which slides at an angle to the horizontal in a slideway formed between the machine frame and two plates 64 and The slide 63 is given a reciprocatory sliding motion by means of a cam lever 66 connected to the slide by means of a link 67, said link being pivotally connected to the upper end of the cam lever and the lower end of the slide. The thread passes from the main take-up over a threadtruck 68 which acts as a guide for the thread and which is mounted for rotation on a stud 69 on which the feed slide or carriage, to be hereinafter described, slides. From the thread-truck 68 the thread passes over a thread-truck 70 which forms a part of an auxiliary take-up and thence through the looper.

The auxiliary take-up comprises a threadtruck 7 O mounted on the forward end of an 'od "adjustment by a lock-nut.

BEST AVAlLABLE COP 'end of which is secured'in a hole in the arm 71 and the other end to a screw 75. The

spring 72 tends to'rfaise the arm until a projection 73 onthe arm abuts against the lower endof an abutmentscrew 74, which may be adjusted and locked in any desired position I The tension of the spring 72 may be adjusted as desired by; raising or lowering the adjusting screw 75, lock-nuts being provided for locking screw75 in any desired position of adjustment. v

The thread handling devices of the machine illustrated in the drawing are so arranged and operated'tha't the main takeup acts to exert a stitch setting strain on the seam and draw off thread for the next loop from the tension wheel when the needle is in its forward position and extending through the work. "The main take-up then falls during the thread measuring movement of the thread arm, during the looping movement of the looper and during the retracting movement of the needle. As the needle reaches the limit of its retracting movement it exerts a pull on the thread to tighten the preceding loop, such pull moving the auxiliary take-up arm 71 away from the abutment screw 7 at and placing the auxiliary tension spring 72 under I tension; To render the action of the main take-up, the auxiliary take-up and the needle certain, reliable and uniform under all conditions of sewing, means are provided in the machine illustraferl in the drawings which ensure that the pull exerted upon the thread by the needle as it reaches the limit of its back ward movement shall always be against the resistance offered by the auxiliary tension spring 7 2 and not against the resistance offered by the tension wheel 151. To secure this result the main take-up slide 63 is provided with a cam plate 76 having an in clined cam surface 77 and an extended raised surface 78 to cooperate with a pin 79 projecting from the rear end of the auxiliary take-up arm 71. The surface 78 of the cam plate 76 acts as a stop to engage the pin 79 and limit the movement of the auxiliary take-up during the action of the main takeup in setting the stitch, while the surface 77 acts to positively move the auxiliary takeup in case the strain on the thread during the first portion of the take-up movement of the main take-upmoves the auxiliary takeup so as to bring the pin 79 into the path of said surface. During the last portion of the take-up action of the. main take-up, therefore, the auxiliary take-up is practically locked in a position in which the projection 73 on the arm of the auxiliary take-up is nearly in contact-with the abutment screw .tion of the awl actuating thread, how-ever the surlface 78 of the cam plate moves away from the path of the pin Z9, leaving the auxiliary t akerup free to he moved against the tension of the spring 72 so that when the needle exerts a pull on the thread at .the end of its retracting move-- ment, the auxiliary take-up can yield to the required extent without bringing up against a positive stop so as zllO cause an strain to be exerted .on the thread in addition to that caused by the spring 72 of the auxiliary take-up.

The slight advancing movement. which is given to the needle during the feeding movement of the awl, referred to in th descripmechanism, tends .to slacken the needle loop so as .to .reliere end to the rear end of the arm 82.

thestrain on the needle and work during the feed, To enable .the feeding DIONQlllQllt of the work to take place with substantially no interference whatever on account of the strain exerted by the thread, the ,takerup oi the machine illustzated in the drawing; is given a thread delivering movement during or just prior to the feeding of the shoe, which movement preferably is sufiicient to allow .the auxiliary take-up nrm to he moved .by its spring against the stop screw H.

The machii' e herein disclosed is p 'm'ided with a channel closing finger which operates to press the channel flap down 0mthe stitches ot' the seam ins the sewing operation progresses. Tillie channel closing linger is indicated at and is secured to one end of a stud 81 pirotally mounted in the frame of the machine. Secured to, the other end of the stud 81 (see Figs. .7 and 16) is a arm 82 extending toward the rear of the machine and noimally drawn upwardly ;by a tension spring 83, one .end of which is secured to a ,pin on the machine frame and the other This spring, tends to hold the channel closing finger down against the. vchannel flap. The .npward movement of the arm 82 is limited by en abutment screw Si adjustably secured to said arm and adapted to engage with a fixed alnitment on the machine frame. This abutment screw may be adjusted as desired and locked in position by means of a locknut 85,

The channel closing linger is raised from engagement with the channel flap during each stitch forn'iing cycle and is also raised whenever the machine is stopped to remove a sewed shoe. To raise the finger when the machine is stopped there is secured to a rod St}, (Figs. 7 and 1(3) operated from the starting and stopping treudle, a collar 87. As the collar 87 rises its upper surface engages the ,end of a .rearwardly extended arm 88 of a-lever fulcrumed on a-pin 89 screwed into the niechine frame. A forwardly extending arm 90 of said lever is formed as a. cam and overlies the arm 82. This cam is so designed BEST AVAlLABLE COPY thetwhen the arm 88 is rising, the highest part of the cam is brought into engagement with the arm 82, depressing said arm and consequently raising the channel closing finger 80 to a position out of engagement with the channel flap. In such posit-ion the channel closing finger does not interfere with the removal of vthe shoe from the machine.

While the needle is in the work it is deirable to hit h hanne clo ing finger out of engagemen w th th channel flap a said finger may be mounted close to the needle and yet not hold the channel flap in a position to interfere with the stitch form- ,iijg and setting operatitnis. To this end, the n i'ann l los ng" fi ger i P ovid d Wit-l1 11 rearwardly extending arm '91 (Figs, 5 and 1- formed n egrally th rew th T 1 t t arm 1 the e i P V dB n t n let connecting the needle cam lever with the n edle segment, e in an e t enga t inne nd an i er r ex e d n an 93' t rmi Pa t a le iulcrum on .atud 4, h s P n is. ednit d to e ga the arm .93 the connecting link 14 is drawn rea wardlyto throw the needle forward, and is so placed on said connecting link that it will engage the arm 93 during the first part of the forward movement of the needle, lhe arm 93 has a downwardh extending erm formed as a .cam which is noyedferwardly to engage and push downwardly the-[rear endof arm 91 as the arm 93, is moved rearwardly. The channel closing finge .80 i by such an w d to a ptisitionout of engagen ient with the channel flap, and "is held in such position during the remainder of the advancing stroke of the needle and also during such part of the retracting stroke of said needle as the pin holds the cam .95 in engagement with said arm 91. litorsion spring 96, one end of which engages a pin on them-11193 and the other end of lQh S Connected to an arm rigid with the stud 94: tends to hold the cam 95 out ofengagement with the arm 91, its movement under the force of the spring being determined by abutment pin 97.

The channel guide (Fig. (5) is indicated at 98 and, as shown, is secured to an arm 99 depending from the feed slide 100, which is mounted to reciprocate laterally and rock .on the fixed feed slide stud 69 secured in the machine frame. The channel guide is moved toward and away from the shoe as the feed slide rocked about the stud (38). The rock ng motion is accomplished through mechanism which will be hereinafter more particularly described.

The feed slide is reciprocated by means 01 av lever 102 (Figs. {l and 6) fulcrumed on a stud '103 having a roll 104 on its rear end, which engages a lateral cam groove 10;" in the peripheral surface of one of the cams on :the main shaft. The lever 102 is ion lllO

vchine for sewing weltshoes.

BEST AVAILABLE COPY provided with a slot 106 in which is adj ustably secured a pin 107 having mounted therein a block 108 engaging in a slot in a bracket secured to the feed slide by screw 110. To enable the feed slide to'bc adjusted laterally in order to bring the awl into alignment with the needle at the end of the feeding movement, the portion of the'stud 103 forming the fulcrum of thelcver 102 is made eccentric to the axis of the stud and the stud is provided with a nut 111, by means of which it may be adjusted.

The means for imparting rocking movements to the feed slide 100 and arm 99 comprises a lever 112 splined at the forward end to a projection 113 extending from the right side of the feed slide. The lever 112 extends toward the rear of the machine, and at its rear end has a-roll 114 engaging a cam groove in the vertical face of one of the driving cams secured to the main shaft. Intermediate its ends the sides of the lever 112 are flattened, and at such point it extends through a'recess formed between two upstanding arms of a bracket 115 projecting from the frame and holding saidlever against any lateral displacement.

The machine illustrated in the drawings is adapted for sewing turn shoes and consequently is provided with a back gage, for which a welt guide of ordinary construction would be substituted to adapt the ma- Sofar as the present invention is concerned, a back gage and a welt. guide are equivalents, and where the term back gage is used in the claims it is to be construed as including a welt guide or any other device which has the function of the back gage of an inseam shoe sewing machine. This back gage is indicated at 116 and is formed on the forward end of the back gage carrier 117. At its rear end the back gage carrier is pivotally connected to the lower end of an arm 118 projecting downwardly from the fulcrum stud 94. hereinbefore referred to in connection with the description of the flap closing finger 80. Midway between its ends the back gage carrier is provided with an inclined slot 119 through which passes a pin 120 journaled in ears projecting forwardly -From a block or bracket 121 secured rigidl to the frame of the machine. The back gage is adapted to move towards and from the shoe, and on account of the manner in which the back gage is supported by the arm 118 and the pin 120, the back gage moves in a path approximately closely the path of the needle. \Vhile the needle is penetrating the work the back gage is pressed yieldingly against the work, and prior to the withdrawal of the needle is locked rigidly in position. To cause the back gageto be pressed yieldinglyagainst the work, the spring .96, hereinbetore r red to 111 0011- nection with the description of the flap .closing finger 8), is connected to the arm 118. As has been described, the pin92 on the needle actuating link 14 engages the arm 93 during the work piercing stroke of the needle and rocks the arm about the fulcrum stud 94. This puts tension on the spring 96 and'rocks the arm '118 so as to force the back gage 116 against the work,

the pressure of the gage against the work being at firstlight, and increasing until the needle reaches the limitof 'its' piercing stroke, The back gage is now locked in position bymechanism to behereinafter descrlbed, and remains locked during the re- 'tra'cting movement of the needle. As the needle retracts, the pin 92 onthe needle actuating-link lftmoves away from the arm 93, and thus relieves the tension on the spring- 96." when the {back gage is .un-

locked, therefore, it ceases to press. against the work, and remains either'resting lightly on the work or in close proximity to the work.

The back rcst, or bunter, is.indi cated at 122, and is: shown as in'tlie" form of a roll supported at. the forward end of a back rest slide 123. This slide'is mounted in aguideway in the bracket 121 and is pressed towards the shoeby a spring --pres.-3ed arm 124 journaled at its lower end in the frame of the machine and having its upper end in engagement with the rear end of the slide. The slide is guided in the bracket 121 by guiding pieces 125 which engage grooves formed in the sides of the slide and in the bracket 1 1 and which are held in place by screws 126. The back rest, or hunter, 122 is locked against backward movement and unlocked at the same points in the cycle of operations at which the back rest 116 is rest and this mechanism is arranged to act 4 upon the slide 123 and upon a slide 127 connected to the back rest. The slide 127 is mounted in the bracket 121 and rests upon the upper surface of the back rest slide 123. It is connected to the back gage 116 by means of a link 128 extending between the lower end of the arm 118 and a lug 129 projecting upwardly from the slide. To lock the slides 127 and 123 against backward movement a locking bar 130 is provided having a rectangular opening at its upper 'end' tlirough which the slides pass. -The upper and lower surfaces of the opening in the bar 130 are bevelled slightly at their edges as indicated in Fig. 18, and the bar is arranged at right angles to the slides in such a position that a tilting movement of the bar will force the two slides together and lock them against backward movement with relation to the locking bar. The upper an of the lot k g be? is received n a rtl elide 13.1 r i y ecured te the ,1 .21 sh that th lepper ma of the D 11 held ag inst movelner ltw-ith relation 1Q the hr vzrchet and when the her isactiieted m, g ip the slide the re w t-Q4 r gidly ege n'si basibvard moyinerit nth relation to the bracke The. lower end of h l cking n" 19- 'ene'eged y pring press d plunger 32 Wliieh forc s he bar in e. d r ct q o held a icg'e '01 33 at the lower 3 ff theb 1111mm xct i th a cam 1& 9n the can; :ehzrtt of thejiizirgjljine. The plunger at its nd remot f om the le kiz g'her is i s 11j1te lt $1ide in' the 1 1th of e 'e re v .35 moun in .the uteeket 121, and at the en hi h QDMQK'S' nththe lo'clgihg hey pro =l. d vimr heed hebfe m rliieh' and the lmhsfof the it y 135 its zi'ctrttiting" tarin 13$ recfliii' d he "g' iit' 0 the lel kiiig gel 3 th l 132 end the can; 1e ench tof the'lower 'ehd" of thihb. r

by'fthe' I cein zgi ainst the action of the spring pressed plunger unlocks-the slidesv 123 and 121,

While'a, n'lqvernent of the lower end'ot' the loel z'ing bar under the influence of the spring presrsed plunger lo k he el.i.s;les- The ucking mm'ement of the locking bar takes place at that point in thecycle 0fope-ratio n's at which the needle reaches the liznit'ot its piercin stroke, xz'l'rile the unlocking movement of the bar takes place after the needle has completed its retracting movement and after the take-up has made its thread delivering movement to relieve the strain of the thread on the \.'Ol'l during the feed. T he slide 131 which engages th Q. upper end of the locking: bar 130 isllllounted in 2 guidewztt in the upper portion of the bracket 121 and has rigidly secured; thereto. a latter-ally projecting arm 137. The outer end of this arm is slotted and receives the head of an adjustingscrew i 8 mounted in a projection from the bracket 121. By meane of this construction the upper end the locking bur 1.250 can be adju r-ed so as to cause the locking her to act to the best ndvtrntage.

The pin 120 which passes through the slot 119 in the back carrier nr'onnted in the ears ofthe bracket 121 by end portions which are eccentric-to the center portion s o that by rotating the pin a ve'rticill adjustment of the back gage'cerrier and of the hack gage can he =i 'nred as may, he desired. A set-screw 139 serres to lock the pin 120 in adjusted position.

The machine illustrated in the drawh xgs is provided with (lee fior- \i'itlrdrztwiiig the heck gage to at positionont of engagement with the. shoe when the rnaefrihe is stopped. On the rod 86, which operated fironi the starthxg and stopping); treaicile there s s r d a an -le 7 nd :3 qhieh,

as th rod 86 rises; efigegefi a Pill 1 9 n .41

a m 150 sf m d t we ltt'e tl eft ie s ud v t g th lly no tension on thethreiid,

BEST AVAILABLE COPY 9%, ontlie' other end of which the arm 11S op eret-illlg the heel; gage is secured. 'By this lll a nls tlle rgetSti, i s it rises after the rele e of the treadle, causes the arm 150 and consequently the arm 118 to move rearwardly', and withdrew the heck gage from the .shQe.

The tension wheel orer which the thread is passed in the usual manner is indicated at 1,51 we are shown is secured to a plate 152 fastened on a short shaft 153 join-holed at lzi l ji ra he'gring in the xngiehine frame. In order. to provide proper tension on the hread the ete' ien. o he sha 3 yngthet r z11i1 s eplwsed. by a b e' e q f h gjeteke' 2 1b in eg a wi the heft 1.55 fee e e-. which ss a brake etrep pr ghoellti'fi, grs ehown in 7. Flu:

which i .e eut tl to pin 0. h retiree-fl surrounding it at its upper ends. heliea l semmewen ewin 63,- hi p g is QQQfill-fl between '2; collar 164: seemed to the opperend of sgtid'rod end 1 snnila'r collar 16;?" elid zthle .on' said rod and engagin on lie-lower side formedon thefever 1C4)" \Yhe'i machine is stopped the le ei'g and-the brake Strap 15X) egengne the goeition, shown in Fig. 7 in trhih pogitiop the brake strap rests lightly on the'bra' lge hrihlth'i so that there is euh- I A "When the machine is; started the brake strap pre ed against the hr-like hub and held in i -1n QQDjflQt therewith. in order to apply tengion to, the thread during the sesvlng operation. To zrecomphsh thls result the rg;1 1 :1d of the lever 157 is provided with an 1; tinned portion 16? arranged to he err-- hy'a earn 168 formed on the lower side of a gear seetor 169, mounted on the machine frlnne and pivotally connected to npn'ertl extenion of the rod 86. Vhen the lever is de n'es seed by the engagernent t'liereiyith of the can] 168 the hrziko s p 15618, foreed into engagement; with 9; lflfllifi. hill) 1:55, zrildis held in engagement therewith by a, force eq ual to tho gtrelng h of. thespring 162- To )ifewfent the trike-tip in its operation dnr ng; the format-ion of the first stitch from pit. er p nliing threzid out of the thread holding d e yice to be hereinafter described, or breaking the thread. rile-ans are proi idcri to re te the tene'mn through cerat nrow'eihent v'ehe'l'xe' v'er the ma;- chine t 'staited' order gi e such retetion to the tension wheel the rod 86, connected to the starting treadle, has at its upper end a flat extension, in which is a slot 170 through which passes a pin 171 Secured to the gear sector 1G9 pivoted on a stud 172 and engaging with a gear 173 loosely mounted on the tension wheel shaft 153. In order that a rotation of gear 173 may rotate the tension wheel when the rod 86 is depressed there is provided a hub 174 integral with and extending to the right of gear 173 (Figs. 8 and 9). Keyed to the hub is one member 175 of a roll clutch, the other member of said clutch being the brake hub 155 fastened on said shaft .153 as above described. Lying in recesses 176 of said clutch member 175 are rolls 177 normally pressed by springs 178 into such position that a rotation of the clutch member 175 in one direction will cause the rolls to wedge between the clutch member 175 and the inner surface of the brake hub 155, in this manner causing the brake hub to rotate with the clutch member 175. The brake hub being integral with the shaft 153 will cause said shaft to be rotated and rotate the ten sion wheel. The construction of the clutch, however, is such that when the member 175 is rotated in the opposite direction the rolls 177 pass freely over the inner surface of the brake hub 155 and cause no rotation thereof. As stated previously, the treadle rod 86 when depressed to rotate the tension wheel in the manner described also lowers the lever 157 and causes the brake to be applied, thus applying tension to the thread and at the same time preventing any overrotation of the tension wheel.

The movement of the gear sector 169 by means of rod 86 may be varied and by varying the amount of movement of such gear sector the moven'ient of the tension wheel may be varied. To so adjust the movement of the gear sector there is provided in the extension of rod 86 a screw 17 9 the lower end of which projects into the slot 170 and strikes against the pin 171. This screw may be adjusted to vary the amount of lost motion provided by the pin and slot connection 170-171, in this manner varying th throw of the gear-sector, and consequently the rotation given to the tension wheel.

Devices are provided in the machine herein illustrated for cutting and holding the thread at the completion of the sewing. These devices are timed to operate so as to cut off the thread during the last cycle of operation of the stitch forming devices and to hold the end of the thread leading to the supply until the machine is'again set into operation. The machine is also provided with a stop mechanism which, in cooperation with the thread cutting devices, stops the machine with the needle in retractedposition free from the thread.

asst AVAlLABLE ooP The devices for cutting andholding the thread comprise thread holding jaws 180 and 181 and athread cutting knife 182. The thread holding jaws and knife are all mounted on the lower end of a lever 183, the thread holding jaws being arranged to slide in a guideway formed in the laterally projecting end 184 of said lever. The knife 182 is secured in the end of said lever by means of a bolt 185 and has no sliding movement. The thread holding jaws are, however, advanced by mechanism, to be hereinafter described, out beyond the cutting edge of the knife, to grip the thread and are then retracted with the thread held between them. In this manner the thread is pulled across the edge of the knife which severs it and the thread is afterward held until the machine has been again started into operation."

' During t'he'operation of the machine in sewing a seam the lev'er183 carrying the thread gripping jaws remains stationary at a considerable distance to the right of the plane of the needle but while the machine is being stopped, the lever'is swung over to a position where the thread gripping jaws can grip the thread and is then moved back toward normal position with the thread held by said jaws. The lever 183 is pivoted on a stud 186the end portions of which are eccentric to the center portion and about which the lever is adapted to swing freely. On an arm 187 of said 'lever is secured a pin'188 which engages a slot 189 in the end of an arm 190 secured to the forward end of a rock shaft 191 journaled-in the framework of the machine and extending from the front to the rear of the machine. Also secured to said rock shaft midway between its ends is an arm 192 which has in its end a slot 193 engaging a pin 194: mounted on the depending end of a-curved lever 195 which is pivoted at its other end on a stud 196 secured in the frame at the right side. Secured to the rear end of the rock shaft 191 is an arm 197 having a hole in its outer end in which is secured one end of a tension spring 199, the other end of which engages in a screw-eye 200 secured in the frame, said spring normally tending to pull the arm 197 to-the left in Fig. 10.

As stated above, the arms 190, 192 and 197, are all fast on the rock shaft- 191 and rotate therewith, hence if the arm 197 is drawn to the leftby its spring 199 the shaft 191 is rocked and the arms 190 and 192, swing I downwardly. \Vhen the shaft 191 is so rocked the parts assume the position shown in Fig. 10 and the lever 183, is swung from a position where the thread gripping jaws are to the right of the thread to the position illustrated in said Fig. 10. where the thread lies between the thread gripping j aws 180 and 181.

Thero kiu'g of the shet 191, by means 

